Lomond Hotel

225 Nicholson St, Brunswick East; 03 9380 1752

It's amazing what can hide behind the walls of a corner pub. You might wonder on occasion if the Lomond Hotel is still open - it doesn't flaunt itself and neither does the clientele.

When you do step inside, however, there's something of a tardis effect. To one side is a linen-and-silver-cutlery restaurant with a high-end menu. Through another door is a room with bar at one end and stage at the other, the latter occupied several times a week with bands of the blues, roots or Celtic variety.

Round the back is a gaming room and further round again is a lighter space that could be a living room with the added advantage of delivered food.

It's good food, too, and shows the same diversity as the venue. A small blackboard spruiks pub snacks like a toasted sandwich for a fiver (spot on mid-afternoon with a pot of Fat Yak). The larger blackboard stretches through starters, vegetarian options, mains and pub favourites. So there's fish and chips, but also sweet potato fritters; Thai curry as well as bangers and mash.

SG and I both went the red meat option. For him, scotch fillet with herbed butter, chips and salad. For me, beef fillet on mash with quince jus and rocket and parmesan salad. Not at all what I'd expected from a unpretentious pub at the end of a tram route and across from a burger joint. The meat on both dishes was cared for - juicy, pink, succulent. The quince jus was the perfect complement, the peppery, lightly dressed salad providing contrast.

Staff were friendly and the patrons look so comfortable they may well have bar stools and frequent visits from performing bands in their own homes. If you ever find yourself at the end of the 96 tram route, at least there's a good way to pass some time while waiting for the next southbound.